Follow the Neon Signs to the Most Iconic Spots in the Delmar Loop

Lined with an eclectic mix of establishments illuminated by scintillating neon signs, the Delmar Loop was named one of 10 Great Streets in America by the American Planning Association. Spend a day – or two – exploring the neighborhood, indulging in root beer floats at Fitz’s, shopping for eccentric outfits at This! and playing a few frames at Pin-Up Bowl, and you’ll understand why.

“The independent businesses in the Delmar Loop offer something for everyone,” businessman, developer and civic leader Joe Edwards says, “and I mean everyone.”

At the turn of the 20th century, a streetcar ran west from downtown St. Louis to the Delmar Loop, where it looped around the former Delmar Garden Amusement Park in order to make its return trip. In addition to inspiring the name of the area, the streetcar delivered peart visitors interested in dining and entertainment. By the 1920s, Delmar Boulevard was a bustling commercial district that attracted new residents with multifamily housing.

Although the Delmar Loop saw a decline in the middle of the century, a redevelopment plan was adopted in the 1960s, and independent business owners, new and old, began to lay the foundation for the vibrant entertainment hub that we know and love today.

Stabilizing the area and setting the tone for the future, Edwards opened Blueberry Hill in 1972 as a welcoming hangout with live music, homestyle food and pop culture memorabilia.

“When we first opened our doors, the jukebox was the main attraction,” he explains. “Using my collection of 30,000 45 RPM vinyl records, I changed the songs in the jukebox every two weeks. Patrons were exposed to every musical genre, from rock to pop, blues to hip-hop and jazz to zydeco.”

Edwards even hand-typed every title strip with the name of the song, the artist and the year that the song was popular.

“St. Louis celebrities such as John Goodman took notice,” Edwards continues, “and he consistently brought friends into Blueberry Hill. They would put quarter after quarter into the jukebox, playing air guitar and singing along to the songs. It was marvelous to see so many smiles and hear so many voices – some on key, some off key.”

The illustrious jukebox also garnered attention in major media outlets. Both Billboard and Esquire ranked it the No. 1 jukebox in the U.S., while BBC named it the best in the world!

When you visit Blueberry Hill, set aside extra time to peruse the extensive collections displayed in glass cases throughout the space. Edwards has spent decades collecting everything from Howdy Doody memorabilia to vintage Pez dispensers. As you walk in the front door, don’t miss the only cast of Chuck Berry’s hands ever made – they look surprisingly big holding a guitar.

Berry, the first person inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, was a good friend of Edwards, and after Berry inaugurated the Duck Room – which opened inside Blueberry Hill in 1997 – he played here once a month in an unforgettable concert series.

“People traveled from around the world to see Chuck Berry perform at the Duck Room,” Edwards says. “The venue only holds 340 people, so it’s intimate. When you’re sitting in your seat, you can see his eyes, he can see yours, and every month, he would just kick it. He played 209 consecutive months, and he loved every moment.”

If you time it right, you can see a show that excites you in the legendary live music club. Performances happen several nights a week, and tickets typically range from $10 to $25.

Taking another leap of faith, Edwards opened The Pageant, a lauded, 2,000-capacity nightclub and concert venue, in 2000. Week after week, year after year, the venue brings sold-out shows to the area, and its distinct design creates a unique intimacy between performer and audience. No matter where you stand, from the pit to the balcony, you’ll always be within 70 feet of the stage.

Next door, the underground vibe of Delmar Hall attracts audiences with varied interests. Opened in 2016 as a modern-day version of Mississippi Nights – the beloved riverfront club that closed in 2007 after a 30-year run – Delmar Hall has quickly solidified its place in the St. Louis music scene. While you’re in town, get tickets to a concert – even if you don’t recognize the artists on stage, the atmosphere promises a good time.

“Artists and their agents hold all three venues – The Pageant, Delmar Hall and the Duck Room – in high regard,” Edwards explains. “The agents, especially, know that they can start a group at the Duck Room; if the show sells out, they can book Delmar Hall six months later, and in another six months, they can book The Pageant. In a year, their artists can skyrocket to stardom by playing in St. Louis.”

Fun fact: Highly Suspect was the first band to sell out the three venues in succession.

Music lovers will also want to put Vintage Vinyl on their bucket list. Ranked as one of the 10 greatest record stores in the country by USA Today, it offers a treasure trove of vinyl records for audiophiles near and far. For a record with St. Louis flair, look for Chuck Berry’s Live From Blueberry Hill, Oliver Sain’s St. Louis Breakdown: The Best of Oliver Sain and The Welders’ Our Own Oddities 1977-81.

Traveling with your brood? Fill up on breakfast staples, griddled burgers and seasonal shakes at Peacock Loop Diner and then head to Magic Mini Golf for 18 holes of fun in the Delmar Loop. The one-of-a-kind indoor course designed by artist Andy Cross will delight every generation of your family, and it’s accompanied by two full-size shuffleboard courts and a five-car Ferris wheel.

“I like creating places where you don’t have to be good at the sport to have fun,” Edwards says with a laugh. “You could play 18 holes at Magic Mini Golf with Tiger Woods, and you would probably beat him on one or two due to the whimsical nature of the course.”

With a wealth of treasures to discover in the Delmar Loop, staying in the heart of the action seems only logical, and the Moonrise Hotel is a stellar option. The iconic accommodation boasts the world’s largest rotating manmade moon on its roof, where those 21 and older can savor craft cocktails, small plates and bird’s-eye views of the brilliant neon signs along the street.

“Like all my businesses, the Moonrise Hotel combines history and whimsy,” Edwards says. “I have a huge collection of space artifacts, including an Apollo 11 patch taken to the moon and signed by all three astronauts aboard the mission: Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins. It’s one of the rarest space artifacts in existence, and it’s just sitting in a display case, waiting for you to find it.”